add metal gang box on top of existing box I need one gang for the 0-10V speed control and another gang for a timer to automatically turn it off; Then third & forth gangs for 120V and 240V cooking appliances to use under the hood. You can see the 240V in there, .
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0 · one gang electrical box attachment
1 · one gang electrical box
2 · extending one gang metal box
3 · extending one gang box
4 · double gang electrical box
5 · 2 gang metal box extensions
6 · 1 gang electrical box fix
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Is there a simpler way, possibly by installing a face plate or new box on top of the existing box? There are collar boxes available that have . I put a 2 gang 1 device flat mud ring over the metal handy box. I align the top and bottom screw holes in the middle to the handy box screw . So you'll probably be forced to use a two gang old work device box, and enlarge the existing opening. You can install a second duplex .
One thing that I never found is a way to add a gang on to an existing box. When dealing with plaster walls and tightly strapped BX in older houses, it can be a real pain to .Single-gang, new-construction plastic boxes don’t need clamps: Simply strike a screwdriver handle with the heel of your hand to drive out the knockout. To remove a metal-box knockout, jab it with the nose of needle-nose pliers to . I need one gang for the 0-10V speed control and another gang for a timer to automatically turn it off; Then third & forth gangs for 120V and 240V cooking appliances to use under the hood. You can see the 240V in there, . Is there a simpler way, possibly by installing a face plate or new box on top of the existing box? There are collar boxes available that have conduit KO's (knockouts). Just install one on top of the existing device box and run your conduit. This one is even better as it has more volume: Brand: Steel City, Part number:531511234UB.
I put a 2 gang 1 device flat mud ring over the metal handy box. I align the top and bottom screw holes in the middle to the handy box screw holes. Then I got a weatherproof 1" metal extension ring made by RED DOT I believe.
one gang electrical box attachment
So you'll probably be forced to use a two gang old work device box, and enlarge the existing opening. You can install a second duplex receptacle in the same box, or use one receptacle and a half-blank two gang cover. One thing that I never found is a way to add a gang on to an existing box. When dealing with plaster walls and tightly strapped BX in older houses, it can be a real pain to remove an existing box to install a larger one. An old work (retrofit) electrical box is a type of electrical box for outlets, light switches, and other devices that is installed after drywall has already been put in place. This allows you to retrofit an existing wall or ceiling without going through the hassle of removing drywall and plaster.Single-gang, new-construction plastic boxes don’t need clamps: Simply strike a screwdriver handle with the heel of your hand to drive out the knockout. To remove a metal-box knockout, jab it with the nose of needle-nose pliers to loosen it, then use the pliers’ jaws to twist it free.
I need one gang for the 0-10V speed control and another gang for a timer to automatically turn it off; Then third & forth gangs for 120V and 240V cooking appliances to use under the hood. You can see the 240V in there, and I plan to add a 120V with the extra gang.
one gang electrical box
The only way to do that would be to disconnect the ground wire in the 14/2 NM at the panel and in the 'pass through "box. Then the EMT becomes the ground for both circuits. Or just eliminate the 14/2 completely and add another #12 AWG to your conduit run and pull it all the way to your "A" junction box. Nobody says you have to use black & white. The wall switch for the chandelier is in a metal single gang box that is nailed to a doorframe stud. It would be quite easy to cut an opening in the wall immediately adjacent to this box and install a plastic single gang remodeling box.
What you want is a "gangable junction box" such as this one. They make them with plaster ears, with NM clamps in the box, BX clamps, and you can install bushings for conduit. .
Is there a simpler way, possibly by installing a face plate or new box on top of the existing box? There are collar boxes available that have conduit KO's (knockouts). Just install one on top of the existing device box and run your conduit. This one is even better as it has more volume: Brand: Steel City, Part number:531511234UB. I put a 2 gang 1 device flat mud ring over the metal handy box. I align the top and bottom screw holes in the middle to the handy box screw holes. Then I got a weatherproof 1" metal extension ring made by RED DOT I believe.
So you'll probably be forced to use a two gang old work device box, and enlarge the existing opening. You can install a second duplex receptacle in the same box, or use one receptacle and a half-blank two gang cover. One thing that I never found is a way to add a gang on to an existing box. When dealing with plaster walls and tightly strapped BX in older houses, it can be a real pain to remove an existing box to install a larger one. An old work (retrofit) electrical box is a type of electrical box for outlets, light switches, and other devices that is installed after drywall has already been put in place. This allows you to retrofit an existing wall or ceiling without going through the hassle of removing drywall and plaster.
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Single-gang, new-construction plastic boxes don’t need clamps: Simply strike a screwdriver handle with the heel of your hand to drive out the knockout. To remove a metal-box knockout, jab it with the nose of needle-nose pliers to loosen it, then use the pliers’ jaws to twist it free. I need one gang for the 0-10V speed control and another gang for a timer to automatically turn it off; Then third & forth gangs for 120V and 240V cooking appliances to use under the hood. You can see the 240V in there, and I plan to add a 120V with the extra gang.
The only way to do that would be to disconnect the ground wire in the 14/2 NM at the panel and in the 'pass through "box. Then the EMT becomes the ground for both circuits. Or just eliminate the 14/2 completely and add another #12 AWG to your conduit run and pull it all the way to your "A" junction box. Nobody says you have to use black & white. The wall switch for the chandelier is in a metal single gang box that is nailed to a doorframe stud. It would be quite easy to cut an opening in the wall immediately adjacent to this box and install a plastic single gang remodeling box.
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add metal gang box on top of existing box|1 gang electrical box fix