connecting romex to a metal box The correct fix is to use a 10-32 self-taping ground screw in the solid part of the back of the box. A short 6" pigtail of wire is wrapped around that screw and then wirenutted to .
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The correct thing to use is not a grommet, but a NM clamp, as the latter grabs the cable's jacket and strain-relieves it to the box.
Klein Tools 11-in-1 Screwdriver - https://amzlink.to/az0hk1BETCxjRKnipex Wire Strippers - https://amzlink.to/az0RAB6YA7HPMBest NM Cable Connector - There .
The problem is that you should use a connector in the box. A button connector won't work since the 1/2" KO in the box is threaded. A typical metal .
You could a short piece of PVC with a male adapter. Still a larger hole but maybe a little smaller than the cable connector. One other option is a plastic button connector for the Romex. It would only stick out 1/8-1-4". Just . Connecting the egc of the romex to the receptacle or switch green grounding screw would be acceptable in all situations but you must always include a connection to the . The correct fix is to use a 10-32 self-taping ground screw in the solid part of the back of the box. A short 6" pigtail of wire is wrapped around that screw and then wirenutted to .To protect the wires in the unprotected space, you use a short length of EMT from the crawlspace, through the floor, to the junction box. While people usually run separate THHN conductors through EMT, in this case it makes sense to use .
Nonmetallic, or NM, cable (commonly known by the brand name Romex) must be secured to electrical boxes at the point where the cable enters the box. This code requirement is an important safety feature that protects the wiring . The correct thing to use is not a grommet, but a NM clamp, as the latter grabs the cable's jacket and strain-relieves it to the box.
Klein Tools 11-in-1 Screwdriver - https://amzlink.to/az0hk1BETCxjRKnipex Wire Strippers - https://amzlink.to/az0RAB6YA7HPMBest NM Cable Connector - There are. The problem is that you should use a connector in the box. A button connector won't work since the 1/2" KO in the box is threaded. A typical metal 2-screw romex squeeze connector works, but it requires a 1-1/2" hole in the brick to accommodate it's size. You could a short piece of PVC with a male adapter. Still a larger hole but maybe a little smaller than the cable connector. One other option is a plastic button connector for the Romex. It would only stick out 1/8-1-4". Just Google plastic push in Romex connector.
Connecting the egc of the romex to the receptacle or switch green grounding screw would be acceptable in all situations but you must always include a connection to the metal box. The NEC states the minimum safety standards for electrical installations. The correct fix is to use a 10-32 self-taping ground screw in the solid part of the back of the box. A short 6" pigtail of wire is wrapped around that screw and then wirenutted to the rest of the grounds in the box. Ideal makes a prefab assembly for this purpose called a term-a-nut, but you can make your own too using bare wire:To protect the wires in the unprotected space, you use a short length of EMT from the crawlspace, through the floor, to the junction box. While people usually run separate THHN conductors through EMT, in this case it makes sense to use NM through the crawlspace and in to the EMT. My house has mostly AC/BX wiring. I have added a light to an existing lighting circuit and pulled #12 Romex into an existing metal box. Problem is, this box has no 1/2" or standard size knockouts. It has only the smaller AC knockouts. I need a snap-in cable clamp to properly ensure my non-metallic insulation doesn't get cut on the metla box .
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You MUST terminate both wires in a metal box. Put the NM ground wire under a ground screw in the threaded hole in the back of the box, every metal box has one. Then just make sure the BX connector is nice and tight in the box. Nonmetallic, or NM, cable (commonly known by the brand name Romex) must be secured to electrical boxes at the point where the cable enters the box. This code requirement is an important safety feature that protects the wiring .
The correct thing to use is not a grommet, but a NM clamp, as the latter grabs the cable's jacket and strain-relieves it to the box.
Klein Tools 11-in-1 Screwdriver - https://amzlink.to/az0hk1BETCxjRKnipex Wire Strippers - https://amzlink.to/az0RAB6YA7HPMBest NM Cable Connector - There are.
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The problem is that you should use a connector in the box. A button connector won't work since the 1/2" KO in the box is threaded. A typical metal 2-screw romex squeeze connector works, but it requires a 1-1/2" hole in the brick to accommodate it's size. You could a short piece of PVC with a male adapter. Still a larger hole but maybe a little smaller than the cable connector. One other option is a plastic button connector for the Romex. It would only stick out 1/8-1-4". Just Google plastic push in Romex connector. Connecting the egc of the romex to the receptacle or switch green grounding screw would be acceptable in all situations but you must always include a connection to the metal box. The NEC states the minimum safety standards for electrical installations. The correct fix is to use a 10-32 self-taping ground screw in the solid part of the back of the box. A short 6" pigtail of wire is wrapped around that screw and then wirenutted to the rest of the grounds in the box. Ideal makes a prefab assembly for this purpose called a term-a-nut, but you can make your own too using bare wire:
To protect the wires in the unprotected space, you use a short length of EMT from the crawlspace, through the floor, to the junction box. While people usually run separate THHN conductors through EMT, in this case it makes sense to use NM through the crawlspace and in to the EMT. My house has mostly AC/BX wiring. I have added a light to an existing lighting circuit and pulled #12 Romex into an existing metal box. Problem is, this box has no 1/2" or standard size knockouts. It has only the smaller AC knockouts. I need a snap-in cable clamp to properly ensure my non-metallic insulation doesn't get cut on the metla box .
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