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0 · weatherproof round electrical boxes outdoor
1 · waterproof outdoor electrical outlet box
2 · shallow round exterior electrical box
3 · shallow outdoor round electrical box
4 · outside electrical receptacles box
5 · exterior wall mount electric box
6 · exterior electrical receptacle boxes
7 · electrical box outside light mount
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Electrical code requires that all junctions be accessible in a box, so you definitely need one here. You have two choices (that I know of at least): cut a large hole in your siding and mount a retrofit light box into the wall cavity. drill a small hole .
Make sure that your light fixture is big enough to cover the hole you need to make to install the electrical box. If you go to an electrical supply store, you'll find all kinds of electrical boxes. Some of them are specifically designed for remodeling work -- and are easier to attach than electrical boxes designed for new construction.The 4 square box is commonly available in 1-1/2” and 2-1/8” depths (a “deep” box). There are many ways to mount the box depending on your wall. You could use the shallower box with a 1/2” piece of foam behind it, for example, and the box screwed into the wall through the foam. You could use a box with “wings” to mount to a stud. I want to mount an exterior light without cutting a big hole in my SmartSide panel siding, just a small hole for the wires. Attached is a photo of the base of my light; the outer diameter of the base is 5-1/2″. The little black rectangular box inside the base would seem to prevent it from fitting over anything’s protruding edge. What are the options for installing an electrical box for an exterior light, in newly installed stucco, in a robust manner? I’ve found the Arlington FR420F box, which seems on the right track, but offers no air sealing whatsoever, and minimal overlap for the flange. It offers either .5″ (too thin for rain screen) or 1.5″ (too thick).
Article 314 in the National Electrical Code, “Outlet, Device, Pull and Junction Boxes,” includes no mention of airtight box requirements. Air-sealing electrical box requirements are found in the IRC: Table N1102.4.1.1 (R402.4.1.1). Under the electrical/phone box on exterior walls section, the code states: It looks like your light is under an overhang, which is good--otherwise flashing light blocks takes a bit of effort. With your type of siding, though, I would do as Malcolm first stated and remove the box, push the wires back into the wall, and drill out the siding for the pancake box. (or have your electrician do it.) Two architects have come up with an inexpensive way of air-sealing and insulating electrical boxes in exterior walls. After puzzling over the best way of meeting a code requirement for sealed boxes, Bill Hicks and Lucas Schad developed a cardboard form called the Box Shell that wraps around an electrical box. The form is slightly larger than the box, creating a small .
You can seal the electrical boxes with fire rated silicone caulk (not intumescent fire caulk). You can also use the orange great stuf foam, but I like the fire caulk better. Try not to get a lot inside the box, just seal the holes and the edge of the box where it meets the drywall.
The electrical code forbids you from filling the air in the box with spray foam. You've done a pretty good job of keeping the foam out of the box. As long as you don't let the foam encroach on the volume of the box, everything should be OK. Don't worry about the caulk.
Good evening all, I'm still working thru issues involving board and batten over strapping and rigid foam. Now I'm looking into the exterior electrical boxes (for outlets and for lights). I'd like the boxes to be flush-mounted, with the "rain screen" (do we still call it a rain screen if the strapping is horizontal?) space serving as a conduit chase. That would minimize .
Make sure that your light fixture is big enough to cover the hole you need to make to install the electrical box. If you go to an electrical supply store, you'll find all kinds of electrical boxes. Some of them are specifically designed for remodeling work -- and are easier to attach than electrical boxes designed for new construction.The 4 square box is commonly available in 1-1/2” and 2-1/8” depths (a “deep” box). There are many ways to mount the box depending on your wall. You could use the shallower box with a 1/2” piece of foam behind it, for example, and the box screwed into the wall through the foam. You could use a box with “wings” to mount to a stud.
I want to mount an exterior light without cutting a big hole in my SmartSide panel siding, just a small hole for the wires. Attached is a photo of the base of my light; the outer diameter of the base is 5-1/2″. The little black rectangular box inside the base would seem to prevent it from fitting over anything’s protruding edge.
What are the options for installing an electrical box for an exterior light, in newly installed stucco, in a robust manner? I’ve found the Arlington FR420F box, which seems on the right track, but offers no air sealing whatsoever, and minimal overlap for the flange. It offers either .5″ (too thin for rain screen) or 1.5″ (too thick).
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Article 314 in the National Electrical Code, “Outlet, Device, Pull and Junction Boxes,” includes no mention of airtight box requirements. Air-sealing electrical box requirements are found in the IRC: Table N1102.4.1.1 (R402.4.1.1). Under the electrical/phone box on exterior walls section, the code states: It looks like your light is under an overhang, which is good--otherwise flashing light blocks takes a bit of effort. With your type of siding, though, I would do as Malcolm first stated and remove the box, push the wires back into the wall, and drill out the siding for the pancake box. (or have your electrician do it.)
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electrical box for outdoor light|shallow round exterior electrical box