electrical box too deep drywall I have an electrical box that is set about 1/8" too deep in the wall so when the switchplate is installed the receptable plugs are sunken into the plate and recessed. How can I position the outlet farther out so that it is flush with . $95.00
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VISTAR 220V Heavy Duty Block 4 Distribution Box (Portable) | Model : CEE-ELCB-4W Features: Heavy Duty Block 4 Distribution Box with a protection fuses built in.
I've got a bit of a dilemma with walls that are thicker than what the original electrical layout allowed for. All of the boxes (switches, light fixtures, . After hanging drywall and rotozipping around the outside of the box, the boxes are mostly not flush with the drywall. Some worse than others, . I have an electrical box that is set about 1/8" too deep in the wall so when the switchplate is installed the receptable plugs are sunken into the plate and recessed. How can I position the outlet farther out so that it is flush with .
Most likely reason for a deeper setback is drywall not being tight to stud. mudded, and painted..and the drywall screws pop through. If I recall, boxes like this provide several tabs for several potential drywall depths. It's essential .My issue is that I need to install new work boxes so that they extend 1 1/4" beyond the stud. This way, when my second layer of 5/8" drywall goes up, it will be flush. I don't have enough depth with the boxes I am using to go out 1 1/4", . This can happen if the gap around the electrical box is too big, giving the device’s mounting straps very little wall to grab. The gap around the box’s perimeter should be 1/8 inch . This works for boxes up to 1.5" too deep in the wall!
You need box extenions, 1/2 or 5/8" deep to match the DW thickness accordingly. You should be able to find what you need at an electrical supply house.Drywall is not considered combustible but the gap behind the plate looks to expose the inner wall to a combustible area and possibly wood surfaces. Besides, it looks more professional to use a box extension rather than just monkey .The boxes you are going to need will have a lip on the front of the box and a toggle that goes behind the drywall to clamp itself in place. If you only have 2 1/2” if I remember correctly a standard reno box is over 3” deep. I've got a bit of a dilemma with walls that are thicker than what the original electrical layout allowed for. All of the boxes (switches, light fixtures, outlets, etc.) are anchored to studs and/or rafters and set at a depth that would be fitting for some thin paneling or drywall.
After hanging drywall and rotozipping around the outside of the box, the boxes are mostly not flush with the drywall. Some worse than others, it's an old house. But worse, the receptacles only hit the box edge, not enough overhang on the ears to grab any of the drywall. I have an electrical box that is set about 1/8" too deep in the wall so when the switchplate is installed the receptable plugs are sunken into the plate and recessed. How can I position the outlet farther out so that it is flush with the switchplate?
Most likely reason for a deeper setback is drywall not being tight to stud. mudded, and painted..and the drywall screws pop through. If I recall, boxes like this provide several tabs for several potential drywall depths. It's essential to use the right one.My issue is that I need to install new work boxes so that they extend 1 1/4" beyond the stud. This way, when my second layer of 5/8" drywall goes up, it will be flush. I don't have enough depth with the boxes I am using to go out 1 1/4", so I am wondering if I can extend it 1 1/8" instead. This can happen if the gap around the electrical box is too big, giving the device’s mounting straps very little wall to grab. The gap around the box’s perimeter should be 1/8 inch or less— if yours is bigger, fill the gap with drywall joint compound.
This works for boxes up to 1.5" too deep in the wall! You need box extenions, 1/2 or 5/8" deep to match the DW thickness accordingly. You should be able to find what you need at an electrical supply house. Drywall is not considered combustible but the gap behind the plate looks to expose the inner wall to a combustible area and possibly wood surfaces. Besides, it looks more professional to use a box extension rather than just monkey rigging it with nuts or plastic clips on a box that's too far back.
The boxes you are going to need will have a lip on the front of the box and a toggle that goes behind the drywall to clamp itself in place. If you only have 2 1/2” if I remember correctly a standard reno box is over 3” deep.
I've got a bit of a dilemma with walls that are thicker than what the original electrical layout allowed for. All of the boxes (switches, light fixtures, outlets, etc.) are anchored to studs and/or rafters and set at a depth that would be fitting for some thin paneling or drywall. After hanging drywall and rotozipping around the outside of the box, the boxes are mostly not flush with the drywall. Some worse than others, it's an old house. But worse, the receptacles only hit the box edge, not enough overhang on the ears to grab any of the drywall.
I have an electrical box that is set about 1/8" too deep in the wall so when the switchplate is installed the receptable plugs are sunken into the plate and recessed. How can I position the outlet farther out so that it is flush with the switchplate?
Most likely reason for a deeper setback is drywall not being tight to stud. mudded, and painted..and the drywall screws pop through. If I recall, boxes like this provide several tabs for several potential drywall depths. It's essential to use the right one.My issue is that I need to install new work boxes so that they extend 1 1/4" beyond the stud. This way, when my second layer of 5/8" drywall goes up, it will be flush. I don't have enough depth with the boxes I am using to go out 1 1/4", so I am wondering if I can extend it 1 1/8" instead. This can happen if the gap around the electrical box is too big, giving the device’s mounting straps very little wall to grab. The gap around the box’s perimeter should be 1/8 inch or less— if yours is bigger, fill the gap with drywall joint compound.
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This works for boxes up to 1.5" too deep in the wall! You need box extenions, 1/2 or 5/8" deep to match the DW thickness accordingly. You should be able to find what you need at an electrical supply house. Drywall is not considered combustible but the gap behind the plate looks to expose the inner wall to a combustible area and possibly wood surfaces. Besides, it looks more professional to use a box extension rather than just monkey rigging it with nuts or plastic clips on a box that's too far back.
electrical boxes too deep
electrical boxes deep in wall
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electrical box too deep drywall|electrical box too deep in wall